This is the Church of St John, which is located in the medieval soke, the area outside the old east gate. In The Herb Knot, this is where Stefan and Rafi have a less than amicable meeting and where, inside the church, Rafi overhears Roger plotting against Joan le Cran.
This is one of my favourite Winchester places – the other being the Dean Garnier Garden. That particular spot is not mentioned in the book, but it really is worth a visit. Small but beautiful. The layers of cathedral development over the years, all plotted on the information boards. The sun dial, the old passageway for the monks – you love to see it. It’s free and will only take up half an hour of your time.
Anyway, back to St John’s…
I could wax lyrical about St John’s all day. If you visit the city, you’ll take in the cathedral, abbey grounds, castle remains and Westgate Museum, Great Hall and Eleanor’s garden. Possibly the barracks, and then Wolvesey and a quick tour of the college – and then walk down the High Street to take in the shops. These are all good choices. 10/10 would recommend.
St John’s is in the soke, outside the old city walls. It’s usually quiet whether open or closed. Head towards the Bishop on the Bridge pub and the Old Mill. You’re right there where the abbey used to stand – where Sister Domneva and Agnes pounded their pestles. Tsk no, this is not a euphemism. What do you take me for…
Now, you’re past the east gate and out of the city and into the soke. And up the hill there’s this beautiful church.
Climb. Climb that hill and even if the church isn’t open walk into the grounds and look over the city, and then walk down Blue Ball Hill and back into town.
Blue Ball Hill is the location of the old Blue Boar Inn, which used to be the White Boar Inn but obviously if your actual White Boar – aka Richard III – is killed at Bosworth in 1485 and Mr Tudor swaggers in with his fancy leggings, then best to switch your colours pretty sharpish. Change that flag, lads, your pantaloons are on fire.
If you’ve already wandered around the cathedral grounds and learned of poor old Thomas Tetcher, who popped his clogs in 1764 as a result of drinking dodgy beer – it’s in the Blue Boar Inn that he ordered his fatal beverage. But don’t let that put you off the local pubs – health and safety is better than it was in the eighteenth century.
But, but…there is a chance you might hit lucky and find the church open. If so, then go in, and look at the paintings described in the book. They’re really quite something and worth more than a moment of your time.